Day 5: Lucca
“To me, understanding people and their lives is what travel is about, no matter where you go.”
― Rick Steves, Travel as a Political Act
Before rebirth: The Basilica of San Frediano
The Romanesque style of architecture existed in medieval times before the Renaissance. It is known for its spare form and lack of ornament. The word basilica, before Christianity, just meant an ample covered space, which was usually a covered market. Now it is synonymous with “church.” Notice how the gorgeous colorful mosaic in the entablature, above the doors, contrasts with the spare white forms below. Beautiful.
Moving earth
Elena, our guide, explained how ramparts, the projections of the walls, provided surveillance and holes for cannons that were strategically placed to aim at enemies storming the barricades. The Luccans moved a staggering amount of dirt to buttress the walls. Think of the wall as a continuous hill that surrounds the city.
Pedestrians’ delight
Another example of the sweet life
Piazza dell’ Anfiteatro: Amphitheater Plaza
This is an ingenious way of town planning because the space is a dynamic ellipse that excites pedestrians because of its novel shape. Better yet, the form follows the elliptical shape of the 2nd-century Roman amphitheater that once stood here. Functional public spaces are good at being theatrical backdrops for the lives and intrigue of the public.
How?
How can a slice of bread, oil, vinegar, arugula, mushrooms, a sharp, white slice of cheese, which is press grilled, become a transcendent experience? Panini.
Large outdoor spaces for dialogue
If we had more inviting, pedestrian, friendly, and distinct public spaces, maybe we wouldn’t have today's nasty divisiveness in America. If only if.
Stone confection
San Michele in Foro is a colorful stone confection. Notice how the repetitive columns resemble the Leaning Tower of Pisa due to the two cities' rivalry? Lucca is known as the city of 100 churches. I wanted to see as many of the variety of churches as possible, a compendium of history.